Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is the oil derived from the seeds of a Sunflower. Sunflower seed oil is non-fragrant. It is an emollient, meaning it helps to soften the skin.
Sunflower seed oil contains many fatty acids. The fatty acids found in sunflower seeds include (from highest amount to least): linoleic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, oleic acid, and linolenic acid.
These fatty acids help the skin create ceramides. Ceramides play a role in repairing the skin barrier.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil helps moisturize the skin. This in turn helps the skin look more rejuvenated and smoother.
Sunflowers are rich in vitamin E.
Historians believe Indigenous cultures of North America domesticated sunflowers before corn. Thus they relied on sunflower oil for a variety of uses. One such use is moisturizing skin and hair.
Sunflower seed oil may not be fungal acne safe. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter is a plant lipid from the fruit of the Shea Tree. It is an effective skin hydrator and emollient.
Emollients help soothe and soften your skin. It does this by creating a protective film on your skin. This barrier helps trap moisture and keeps your skin hydrated. Emollients may be effective at treating dry or itchy skin.
Shea butter is rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals, or molecules that may harm the body. It is also full of fatty acids including stearic acid and linoleic acid. These acids help replenish the skin and keep skin moisturized.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
Shea butter may not be fungal acne safe. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is created from fatty coconut alcohol, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is a lightweight emollient. Emollients create a thin barrier on the skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated and soft.
Once applied, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is absorbed quickly and leaves a silky feel.
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Coco-Caprylate/CapratePhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin Conditioning
We don't have a description for Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate yet.
Polyisobutene
Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer made from isobutene.
It is a film-forming agent and helps bind ingredients together.
Polyisobutene is not absorbed by the skin.
Learn more about PolyisobuteneDicaprylyl Carbonate
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.
As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive, Emulsion Stabilising, Masking
Synthetic Wax is created from fossil fuels such as natural gas. It is used to enhance texture, adjust pH, and as an occlusive.
It may also be used as an abrasive ingredient to exfoliate the skin.
Synthetic Wax may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxDibutyl Adipate
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent
Dibutyl Adipate is an emollient and solvent. It is created from butyl alcohol and adipic acid.
As a solvent, Dibutyl Adipate helps mix and disperse ingredients evenly.
Dibutyl Adipate is soluble in water and organic solvents. It does not absorb UV rays.
Learn more about Dibutyl AdipateDiisostearyl Malate
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer
Emollient, Skin Protecting
We don't have a description for Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer yet.
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil is the INCI name for castor oil.
Castor Oil helps moisturize the skin. It is rich in a fatty acid called ricinoleic acid. This fatty acid helps prevent moisture loss on the skin. This helps keep your skin soft and hydrated. Ricinoleic acid also has anti-inflammatory and pain reducing properties.
Besides hydrating the skin, castor oil is also used to hydrate hair. By keeping the hair shaft moisturized, breakage is decreased. More studies are needed to show castor oil's effective on stimulating hair growth.
Castor oil is created by cold-pressing castor seeds and then purifying the oil with heat. It was used in Ancient Egypt as fuel in lamps and to help treat eye irritation.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Ricinus Communis Seed OilCeresin
Emulsion Stabilising
Ceresin is a wax derived from ozokerite. It is an alternative to beeswax.
The most common process of creating ceresin is by using heat and sulfuric acid.
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
This ingredient is a form of glycerin with emulsifying and emollient properties.
As an emulsifier, this ingredient helps keep products together while adding a thick texture. The manufacturer states this ingredient has emollient properties. Emollients help keep the skin hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is created by reacting diglycerin and isostearic acid. Due to the isostearic acid base, it may not be safe for Malassezia or fungal acne.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-2 TriisostearateDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
UV Filter
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).
DHHB is well-liked for:
DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.
This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.
Learn more about Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl BenzoateMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion Stabilising
Microcrystalline Wax is created by de-oiling petroleum. It is highly refined and purified before being added to cosmetics.
Microcrystalline Wax is used to enhance the texture and create even consistency. It helps stabilize a product by preventing ingredients from separating.
Ethylhexyl Triazone
UV Absorber, UV Filter
Ethylhexyl Triazone is a modern chemical sunscreen that protects from UV-B radiation.
It is the most effective of existing UV-B filters, as it provides the highest level of photo-stable absorption. It protects from the entire UV-B range (280 to 320nm), with it's highest level of protection at 314nm.
Ethylhexyl Triazone is oil soluble, oderless and colorless, which mean it is able to be incorporated into a variety of different formulations.
It is not currently available within the United States due to slow changing FDA regulations. Outside of the US, it is used in formulations at concentrations up to 5%.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl TriazonePolysilicone-15
UV Filter
Polysilicone-15 is a chemical UV filter that absorbs UV-B rays. It is a photostable ingredient often used to boost SPF factor and protect products from UV-induced deterioration.
Due to regulation loopholes, this ingredient is not required to be labeled as an active chemical filter like other UV ingredients. This is why you'll likely find this ingredient in mineral sunscreens from the US.
Polysilicone-15 is not water-soluble.
Learn more about Polysilicone-15Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Skin Conditioning, UV Absorber, UV Filter
You might know this ingredient as Tinosorb S or Bemotrizinol. It is a UV filter that covers both UVA and UVB rays.
This ingredient has two peak UV absorption peaks ( 310 and 340 nm) and is able to absorb both UV-A and UV-B rays. This ingredient works by preventing UV rays from reaching and damaging your skin.
On top of that - it is highly photostable and helps prevent the photodegration of other sunscreen ingredients such as avobenzone.
Tinosorb S is allowed in the EU, Australia, and Asia. It is close to being approved by the FDA and we'll hopefully get this ingredient in the U.S. by late 2025.
Fun fact: Tinosorb S is the most effective UV absorber at maximum concentration (measured by SPF) permitted in the EU.
This ingredient is oil-soluble, so your oil-cleansers will take this right off at night.
Learn more about Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl TriazineSorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
Manufacturers sell sorbitan olivate under the name OliveM 1000. OliveM 1000 a multifunctional ingredient. It is self-emulsifying. According to a manufacturer, OliveM 1000 does not disrupt natural skin biome.
Due to its olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Humectant, Skin Conditioning
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds from the tea plant. This is the same plant we get green, black, and oolong tea from.
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil is rich in oleic acid. This makes it an effective moisturizer. By drawing moisture to the skin, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil helps keep your skin hydrated.
Other components of Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil includes Vitamin E and polyphenols. These are antioxidants that may help slow down the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals, or unstable molecules that can damage our skin cells.
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil also has anti-inflammatory properties.
The seed oil comes from the dried kernels of the plant.
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Seed OilSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Humectant
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds of the Marula plant. In South Africa, Marula is called "an elephant's favorite treat".
Marula seed oil is a non-fragrant oil. It is rich in fatty acids, such as oleic, linoleic, palmitic, stearic, and more. These fatty acids help hydrate the skin.
Other components of marula seed oil include vitamin E and antioxidants such as flavonoids.
Due to the fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Sclerocarya Birrea Seed OilAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice comes from leaves of the aloe plant. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is best known for helping to soothe sunburns. It is also anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, antiseptic, and can help heal wounds.
Aloe is packed with good stuff including Vitamins A, C, and E. These vitamins are antioxidants, which help fight free-radicals and the damage they may cause. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice also contains sugars. These sugars come in the form of monosaccharides and polysaccharides, folic acid, and choline. These sugars are able to help bind moisture to skin.
It also contains minerals such as calcium, 12 anthraquinones, fatty acids, amino acids, and Vitamin B12.
Learn more about Aloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceSorbitan Sesquioleate
Emulsifying
Sorbitan Sesquioleate is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is an emulsifier and prevents ingredients from separating.
Specifically, this ingredient is a water-in-oil emulsifier, meaning it helps water dissolve into oil.
Some studies suggest this ingredient may cause irritation in some people. If you are unsure, it is best to patch test.
This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan SesquioleateSilica Dimethyl Silylate
Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising
This silica is mainly used to thicken oils and suspend particles in oils. It is not water soluble.
According to the manufacturer, it:
The manufacturer also claims this ingredient to be useful in makeup.
In lipstick formulations, this ingredient improves color payoff, reduces pigment settling, and reduces oil bleeding. This ingredient also improves the grip of powder products such as dry shampoos.
Learn more about Silica Dimethyl SilylateTocopherol
Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolEthylene/Propylene Copolymer
Abrasive
Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer is an exfoliant.
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
Euphorbia Cerifera wax comes from a shrub in Northern Mexico. It is used to stabilize formulations and has emollient properties.
Emollients form a thin layer on top of skin to prevent water from evaporating, keeping skin and lips hydrated.
According to a manufacturer, this wax can range from a yellow/brown color to translucent.
Learn more about Euphorbia Cerifera WaxHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax is created from the common sunflower.
Sunflower seed wax is made up of long chain non-glyceride esters, a small amount of fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
This ingredient is often used to enhance the texture of products. The fatty acid properties also help hydrate the skin.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed WaxDehydroacetic Acid
Preservative
Dehydroacetic Acid is fungicide and bactericide. It is used as a preservative in cosmetics. Preservatives help elongate the shelf life of a product.
Dehydroacetic Acid is not soluble in water.
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateSodium Benzoate
Masking, Preservative
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium Benzoate